Should I shovel the snow off my deck?
Without a doubt - yes!  Regardless of whether your deck is made of pressure treated wood, redwood, cedar, or other natural untreated woods, water may still enter the wood and expand and contract with the absorption and release of water.  This swelling and shrinking action causes nails to pull or pop and will eventually weaken and rot deteriorate the wood.  It is important to remove the snow and ice from your deck as soon as possible to minimize the amount of moisture that the wood can absorb.

How do I shovel the snow off my deck?
Regardless of the type of wood your deck is made of, you should remove the snow after each snowfall.  Most hardware stores sell plastic shovels that work great.  Be sure to avoid any shovel with a metal strip on it, as it will gouge and scrape the wood as you clear the deck.  Begin shoveling the snow going in the lengthwise direction of the wood.  Shoveling crosswise can scratch or cut into the wood.

Should I use salt to melt the ice?
Salt and ice melters are not recommended for use on a deck.  They can easily damage or discolor the wood of your deck.

Photo courtesy of inkswamp

Late summer fertilizing is just one essential part of your late summer and early fall lawn care maintenance you should be performing every year to prepare your lawn for the winter and make sure it is ready to thrive next spring.

Fertilizer By The Numbers
It’s important to remember that all fertilizer is not created equal. Each bag will be labeled with a formula to help you determine which type of fertilizer is best for your lawn application. (Remember to always follow the manufacturer’s recommended rate of application.)

On each package of fertilizer, there are three numbers (often called NPK) that tell you the percentage of nutrients in the fertilizer. The three main components are:
• Nitrogen (symbol N) for lawn blade, leaf development, foliage growth and vivid green color.
• Phosphorous (symbol P) for root growth.
• Potassium (symbol K) sometimes called potash, for root development and disease resistance.
For example, the common 16-4-8 fertilizer is made of 16% nitrogen, 4% phosphorus, and 8% potassium.

September
Early in September, your lawn is likely recovering from a long hot summer and may even be coming out of a drought-induced dormancy, so you’ll want to give your lawn a good shot of nitrogen to boost the blade growth. A fertilizer with a formula of 20-8-8 will give it the nutrients it needs to head into the fall strong.

Late October or Early November
While a late summer dose of fertilizer is important, an application in late fall around the end of October or early November is absolutely essential. This application should provide a good dose of phosphorus will stimulate root growth through November and even into early December. A fertilizer with a formula of 13-25-12 works very well this time of year.

If you are a bit nervous about the cost of putting two applications of fertilizer on the lawn in both the early and late fall, you may want to use only half of the recommended amount of fertilizer in that early fall job and half of the recommended amount in the late fall application. This will really cut the costs while still giving you some important benefits. Some people also treat their lawn for weeds and insects at the same time, but unless there are signs of trouble or a history of problems with your lawn, don’t bother applying anything but fertilizer.

Whether you choose to fertilize your lawn two, three or four times per year, remember you should always give your lawn a good dose of fertilizer in the fall – it’s the most important one of the year.

Wood Deterioration
By far, the most common source of deterioration and damage to decks is water.  Even a small amount of moisture causes the wood to expand and then contract when it dries.  This swelling and shrinking action can cause fasteners to pop or loosen and may warp, crack or split the boards.  If the deck remains wet constantly, fungus and bacteria can begin to grow and begin rotting the wood, turning the wood into mush over time.

Prevention for this can be as simple as keeping your deck clean by sweeping regularly and clearing away any puddles to help keep the wood dry.  A good coat of sealant can help greatly, especially when combined with prevention.

Depending on your area, a wide variety of insects may have taken up residence in your deck and are slowly destroying it.  Remember that many woods are insect resistant, but not likely insect proof.

Inspecting your deck
At the beginning and end of each season, be sure to conduct a thorough inspection of your deck, stairs and foundations.  Walk around the deck and listen for squeaks.  Feel for any soft spots or sagging areas.  Pay special attention to areas where there is direct wood-to-wood contact as this is a prime spot for wood rot.

• Check where the joists contact the beams
• Check where the beams contact the posts
• Check the posts contact the concrete footings, as these are especially moisture prone
• Check the ledger board where the deck connects to the house
• Check the bottom of the stair stringers where the wood contacts the ground, patio or the landing area.

Be especially aware of areas that are showing water stains, as this indicates that they received constant moisture and may have potential for future problems.

Replace Rotten Boards
If you find any boards beginning to show signs of rot, you need to replace them.  It may be tricky to remove just the rotten board without damaging the other boards.  A circular saw and a sharp chisel make easy work of removing the old board.

With some initial maintenance and repairs already taken care of, you will have more time to tackle other projects once the weather improves.

Photos by: redagain

The wood used to create this furniture is certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) to promote environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.  By choosing an FSC product, you can be confident that you are protecting the forests by not contributing to the destruction of them.

Delahey Outdoor Storage Box (Link) ($125.00 + free shipping to your local Walmart store) Use this handsome Delahey storage box when putting away extra cushions and pillows, lawn or pool toys. See other Delahey furniture and accessories to complete your outdoor room. All pieces in the collection are crafted from the same wood and finished with oil.

• Use to store pool or lawn toys, extra pillows, cushions and more
• Top sturdy enough to be used as seating
• Metal hinges and hydraulic lifts for easy open-and-close
• Made of FSC solid hardwood with weather-resistant finish
• Apply teak oil or teak sealer to maintain color and beauty
• Due to differences in the wood grain, the color/appearance of furniture in the Delahey collection may differ slightly, but all are made with the same wood and oil finish
• Measures: 54″ W x 25″ D x 21″ H

The wood used to create this furniture is certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) to promote environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.  By choosing an FSC product, you can be confident that you are protecting the forests by not contributing to the destruction of them.

Delahey 4ft Solid Hardwood Bench (Link) ($79.00 + free shipping to your local Walmart store) designed for comforts with contoured backrest and wide seating. Weather-resistant teak oil finish.

Thatch Removal. Thatch is a tightly intertwined layer of dead and living grass stems and roots that forms between the soil surface and green foliage. When the thatch layer thickness is greater than 1/2 inch, dethatching may help your lawn breathe and encourage a thicker plush carpet of new growth. Many rental companies and garden centers offer vertical mowers and power rakes to thin the grass and lift the thatch from the soil surface. The excess thatch debris can be raked or vacuumed and discarded in the compost pile. Typically, thatch removal cam be done in late August or September, allowing for at least four weeks of good growing weather before the grass enters its dormant phase in late fall. Fertilizers can be applied after dethatching to further encourage recovery and regrowth.

Fertilization. Late summer and fall is an excellent time to fertilize lawns. Check with your local garden center to determine how much fertilizer is needed in your area. Typical lawns may need 1 to 2 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.  Read more about late summer and early fall lawn fertilizers.

Aeration. Feeling the plush grass beneath your feet is one of the best rewards for a great lawn, but too much heavy foot traffic may compact the soil and will thin the grass. Late August and September is a great time to aerate your lawn and loosen up the compacted soils using a machine with hollow metal tubes that remove plugs of soil from the lawn. These plugs of soil can be broken up by raking or mowing and will give your lawn a chance to breathe.

Mowing. Mowing produces a neat, well groomed appearance that many home owners strive for. However, it is important to prevent problems with your lawn by adapting your mowing technique to the variety of grass in your lawn, the current growing conditions and the season. Mow often enough so that no more than 1/3 of the total leaf surface is removed and continue mowing the lawn until it stops growing and becomes dormant in late fall (early to mid-November). Remember - mowing doesn’t hurt the grass; it encourages spreading and promotes a thicker lawn.

Seeding. Whether you are establishing a new lawn or trying to improve your damaged areas, late summer or early fall is an excellent time to seed or overseed your lawn. Remember that the seed needs moisture and direct contact with the soil for germination, so water frequently and be prepared to tend your lawn with great attention. As evening temperatures drop, a heavy dew will become more apparent in the morning and can provide a healthy source of moisture during the grass seed’s initial germination. Seeding may begin in mid-August and should be completed by the end of September.

Broadleaf Weed Control. Perennial broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions and plantain, can be controlled with the application of broadleaf herbicides from mid-September to the end of the growing season, usually early November. Most broadleaf herbicide products consist of a mixture of two or three of the following chemicals: 2,4-D, dicamba, MCPP, and triclopyr. Fall applications of broadleaf herbicides are safer and more effective than spring or summer applications as perennial weeds move carbohydrates down to their roots to store over the winter. If a broadleaf herbicide is applied to the weeds, it will also be stored in the roots, resulting in the complete destruction of the weeds. With gardening activity winding down in the fall, the risk of injury from herbicide drift to vegetable and flower gardens, fruits, and ornamental plants is also reduced.

image credit: dredrk